
Isla San Jose & Isla San Francisco (Wednesday):
Wednesday already??!
It’s Wednesday morning, and we’re anchored off of Isla San Jose. This cruise seems to be going by all too quickly, but it’s not quite over yet. Another wonderful early morning, stretching on Aft 400. The weather has indeed been perfect the entire trip. Even at 7:00am, the sun barely up, the temperature on the deck is comfortable enough for short sleeves and shorts for stretches. It’s almost a shame to go back down to the dining room for breakfast. Almost. The delicious Huevos Rancheros make up for it.
Checking the activity board, Terra has split the morning kayakers into two groups - A and B - plus one skiff tour. All are meeting on Aft 300 at the same time, a little earlier than usual to try to catch the tide.
Daniel coming in clutch
We return to our cabin, and I realize that I never gave my Keens to Terra for surgery. Daniel notices when he sees us in the hallway, and tells me to meet him on Aft 400 before we leave for kayaking. A few minutes later, I find him up on deck, digging through his personal duffle. “I have my dive booties. Size 11, but should fit bueno if you wear socks. You can use for rest of trip. They’re safer than what you got.” I thank him profusely, and go back down to the cabin to find socks and put on Daniel’s booties and my PFD, then run up to Aft 300 to join Margy.
Mereth, who is guiding us in kayaking group A, and Josh who will be guiding kayaking group B, radio down to the fantail together, and we’re good to go. Two skiffs are lined up on the launch platform, with the third for the skiff tour holding position just off the stern. We each pile into our respective zodiacs, the launch platform is lowered, and we speed off to the beach.
Maze of mangrove
Once we decide on a kayak, the guides help us get in and push off. Mereth advises us to group up 30 yards offshore, and she will lead us through the narrow, shallow passage into the mangroves. We parallel the shoreline for a few minutes, before Mereth lines up with the small opening in the sand bar, and powers in. Each kayak follows one-by-one, letting the focused swell of the tide push us through. The other kayaking group join us in the mangroves, but steer off in a different direction. We’ll meet up with them again later at the end of the excursion.
On the other side of the sand bar, the water is smooth, and largely calm. There’s a slight current, much like a lazy river, that pushes us gently through the tall bushy mangroves with only the slightest of paddling. The mangroves themselves hold countless egrets, herons, commorants and pelicans. We drift so silently that we can sneak right up to these magnificent birds, before they take flight in large numbers.
Floating through the narrow lanes between the trees, the mangroves are like a huge maze, each turn leading to another surprise section. One section in particular opens up into a huge clearing. In most places, we can look down and see the sandy bottom. Dried mangrove leaves add pops of orange color among the silt and coral. The experience is a bit reminiscent of our kayaking up to Lampough glacier in Alaska; quiet, serene, and calm. Really the only sounds coming from the bird calls and our paddles slushing through the water.
We meet back up with the other group of kayaks, and together we make our way out of the maze. Mereth has us all pause, while she determines the pacing of the swells at the inlet, then it’s time to gain a bit of speed and race through against the tide. The first few boats make it out with no issue, but a few kayaks take a swell to the bow and a huge groan goes up as the paddlers come away soaked.
No big deal. No one tipped over, just a little water. And pretty refreshing after paddling on this already warm morning. We all make it safely back to the beach, are helped out of our kayaks, and we take various skiffs back to the ship.
Lunchtime and the hat
Over lunch, Captain pulls up anchor and moves the Safari Voyager south to Isla San Francisco. We watch as we slip by towering cliffs, painted with red, white and black striations, anxious for our afternoon hike along this very ridgeline.
We grab a round of cervezas and head up to the bench in front of the bridge to get a better look. Along the way, Margy loses her favorite hat in a gust of wind. Captain sees this out his bridge window, and while he sympathizes, he declares that it was an “offering to Poseidon”. Still, one of the skiffs, already out scoping the bay, thinks they may have seen the hat, and rush to check it out, but the effort proves fruitless. So if anybody finds a Winnie-the-Pooh baseball cap, youth-sized, in the bay near Isla San Francisco, Baja California Sur, do let us know, won’t you?
The transit takes a little over an hour, and as we round the point, we’re greeted by the impossibly turquoise water of Isla San Francisco. There are several other boats anchored in the bay, so Captain sets up as far out to sea as he can. The skiffs, too, plan out a route to the beach that will not disturb our neighbors, and they begin hauling the beach chairs and coolers in to the sand. And before we know it, the call goes out for the activity groups to get ready for the afternoon’s adventures.
Like a sleeping dragon
The group for the hard-charger hike across the island is first out in the skiffs, followed about 30 minutes later by two groups of moderate hikers. Once we hop out of the skiff, we find our way to a beach chair and slip out of our water shoes and into our hikers. Daniel’s booties were perfect, and easy to get in and out of. Once the hiking boots are firmly laced on, we unravel our walking poles. We’d, of course, brought ours from home, having bought some for our Alaskan cruise that we were never able to use because they were actually a tripping hazard in the snowy, frosty, undergrowthy climes of Glacier Bay. But here, in sunny Baja, they are a welcome prop for older legs. If you didn’t have some of your own, they were also provided on the boat.
Once shod, Josh leds us up the shallow embankment at the back of the beach, up and over into an amazing salt flat on the other side. We take care to walk around the salt, as Josh warns that parts can trap folks as the salt sticks together like concrete. Almost on cue, we spot a few footprints, presumably from the first group of hikers that had taken off a couple of minutes before us, that stopped in the middle of the flat and took an immediate 90 degree turn to get back to solid dirt.
We see Daniel and the first group ahead of us, noting that they’re making their way up the ridge along a path toward the front of the beach. Josh decides it’d be best to hike up a different path, further inland, to avoid pushing them faster than they were comfortable. “It just allows all of us to go at our own pace.” The hiking is, indeed, moderate, or moderate-plus. We work our way up the ridge, the shale underfoot slipping and crunching as we climbed. Eventually we reach the narrow ridge, the line snaking along the edge of the cliff like the spine of a scaly dinosaur. It is at this point that Josh tells us he used to be afraid of heights, and it was hikes like this that eventually helped him conquer his fear.
On the ridgeline, we are treated to spectacular views both across those turquoise waters of the bay, but also out over the straight that we had just motored through at lunchtime. The first group had hiked as far up the ridge as they could, and had now turned back, meeting us ¾’s of the way down. Bill and the film crew were hiking with Daniel’s group, and we spend a few minutes together waving at the drone flying high above us, before they begin the trek downward and we continue on to the top.
A brief water break, to take in the scenery and rest, and then it’s time to hike back down. Footrests hold, and poles keep us from tumbling, as we finally exit out from some high brush onto the openness of the far end of the beach. Trekking back on sand, along the way Josh walks alongside asking about where I’m from. He loves to learn other peoples stories. We talk about the Bay Area, Portland, and the Pacific Northwest, and eventually about our Alaskan cruise (since he’s from Haines, Alaska). We talk about Mikey, one of our expedition guides on the Wilderness Explorer. We agreed that everyone loved Mikey. Josh then goes on to say that Mikey left Uncruise because he met a girl, and Josh thought they’d be getting married soon. So Mikey, if you’re reading this, heartfelt congrats! May the adventure continue, always.
We eventually found our way back to the beachchairs, where we were finally able to take off our hiking boots, grab one of Brooke’s cool cocktails, and dip our weary feet in the bay, just as the hard-charger group was returning. We all gather at the waters edge for over an hour, exchanging stories from our day’s varying adventures, splashing in the cove, stand-up paddling, and toasting the week.
There will be sea lions!
Then it’s time to hop onboard a skiff and head back to the ship for quick showers and the start of happy hour. Margy’s off lending her expertise at the puzzle table (it’s been determined that the table isn’t actually big enough for this particular puzzle, and several of the corners are hanging precariously over the edge), and Carl settles in with a beer to talk with Dave, and to see some of Anne’s amazing photography.
With the 6’o’clock news comes exciting news. The weather and timing are perfect for the snorkeling adventure in the protected sea lion reserve at Los Islotes. This is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to swim with playful California sea lion pups. Terra explains that there are strict rules for this encounter; you have to wear a special high-vis PFD, you are not allowed to touch the sea lions unless they touch you, you are not allowed to dive under the surface, and you must dive off the skiff backwards… something that neither Margy or I had any experience doing. Terra says this is an advanced snorkel, given that the area is largely unprotected from swells, and because of the aforementioned rules. Despite the special opportunity, Carl opts out in favor of the alternate skiff ride around the reserve, promising some still amazing close-up interactions with the sea lions. Margy is on the fence; unsure whether she’s prepared for the more technical snorkel. Terra says she’ll sign Margy up for the snorkel, and talk with Mereth and Daniel to confirm that she’s up to the task.
Dinner and a show
At dinner, we determine that over half of the friends on the boat had cruised before with Uncruise, and of those, for the vast majority, that previous cruise had been one of the Alaskan itineraries, leading us to dub the Alaskan cruise the “gateway drug” to Uncruise.
Our after-dinner presentation this night was a fascinating journey through celestial mechanics, given by none other than Josh. He has Sharon, our local sommelier, swirl a glass of wine to demonstrate how tides actually work; you get the most extreme tides around the edge of the glass, while the area in the middle, above the stem, sees little change. These presentations by the guides are not only informative, but fun to see what kinds of things these people are passionate about. It’s clear from every talk, they truly live this.
